For a long time, it was a cuvée as singular as it was appreciated in many of the capital’s “bistronomiques”. But with Russia’s attempted invasion of Ukraine, the Moscow Way provoked some negative reactions and led to a drop in sales for several months. Its name has nothing to do with a marketing ploy,” explains Domaine Gayda (Aude), “it comes from a landmark tree used by Aéropostale. And there really is a Moscow Way in Gayda’s home village of Brugairolles.
And if you scratch the historical surface, this Moscow Road (24€) undoubtedly has Napoleonic origins. Is it related to those grognards who came up from the Spanish furnace only to end up frozen during the Russian campaign of 1812? One thing’s for sure: it’s the flagship cuvée of Domaine Gayda, which produces 120,000 bottles. A blend of Syrah (59%), Grenache (35%) and Cinsault (6%), it is renowned for its freshness, opulence and hint of violet.
Gayda, launched by two successful Anglo-Saxon businessmen, an Englishman and a South African, celebrated its 20th anniversary. They planted vines on what used to be sunflower fields. Over the years, it has become clear that the two founders were right to choose their “French team”, notably Vincent Chansault, an outspoken winemaker who has toured Australia, and David Chardron, a sales manager who has spent time in New Zealand.
Rather than integrate the Malepère PDO, the Gayda team sought flexibility by playing the Pays d’Oc PGI card, of which they have become one of the flagships, while taking care to retain a New World wine spirit. With a method, that of blending terroirs. So, while the estate has 50 ha of its own vineyards, it buys as many grapes from loyal partners, for example the equivalent in Minervois la Livinière.
Gayda’s other hallmark is constant innovation, both in grape varieties and in winemaking methods, which use ovoid vats and amphorae, for example, while sulphiting as little as possible, and certainly not during vinification. Bursting fruit, as with this Free Style, a blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Carignan aged 9 months in old barrels, is one of the salient results of this perpetual quest.
There are also white cuvées. Like this Altre Cani (23€), (other way in Catalan) 100% grenache gris, fresh, marked by iodine with a lovely bitterness on the finish. Easier and more affordable, the Viognier (€8), a blend of schist terroirs, is fresh with good tension. Great conversation starters at the bar.
